The Russian Banya

A real visit to Moscow is not complete without a visit to a Russian Banya. Participating in this unique experience is an unforgettable part of the Russian culture; going to the banya is a time honored activity and the love that the Russian people have for the banya is profound. With special thanks to Sasha and friends Damir and Pasha, I had my first Banya visit last night at Moscow’s finest banya, Sanduny which is over 115 years old.

In 1832 the famous Russian Author Alexander Pushkin wrote that “the banya is like the Russian's second mother." He goes to his second mother for rejuvenation, warmth, and a bath. She restores him to a state of glowing health. In Russia, sweating and health are virtually synonymous. Researchers have found that the blood supply to the skin, muscles, and joints are notably improved after a visit to the banya. The body’s metabolism is increased considerably, the number of red blood cells and quantity of hemoglobin increases, the overall oxygen level increases and impurities are purged. The banya assists in eliminating toxins from the body and improves circulation of the blood. The word banya actually derives from Latin balneum, which means 'to chase out pain'. The benefits of banyas and saunas were the subject of ancient philosophers such as Aristotle and Hypocrites.

Russians regard their visits to a banya as key to continued good health and as a remedy to poor health, especially with regard to circulatory and respiratory illnesses. They are very, very serious about the banya. They have been a part of Russian culture since medieval times (nearly 900 years). Almost every village home has its own banya. And I have heard that there are over 100 public banyas in Moscow alone. These private banyas range from about the size of a large walk-in closet to several palacial rooms and pools.

What exactly is a Banya? The Banya, in the most simplest terms, is basically a combination of a steam room/humid sauna and cold pools of water or snow, plus a few uniquely Russian aspects such as how and what accessories to use to generate steam and soften the skin. It involves lots of steam and humidity, high heat, icy cold water, and an invigorating beating with birch leaves and branches. In contrast to the Roman baths and wester saunas, in the Russian Banya the air is humid and moist. In fact, the Russian steam banya normally reaches 95 degrees with 85-90% humidity. The use of certain herbs in the water of the banya is thought to magnify the effect of the banya experience.

In the main steam room, called the “parilka”, the temperature is kept extremely hot with the help of a large oven or fire. To add the humidity, someone takes a ladle full of hot water and dashes the hot water onto the stones. The room immediately fills with hot steam. The inexperienced run for cover and no one but the truly experienced remain on the upper benches. Everyone feels their pores open instantly, and a week's worth of toxins begin to be sweated out. Russians believe this process not only removes toxins but also relieves stress. What better way to get rid of stress than to have it steamed, washed, and beaten out of you ?!?! Hold on, what do you mean “beat” the stress out of you?? Ahhh - let me elaborate. Banya-goers place dried branches from the white birch or oak trees (these bunches are called veniki) into water to soften them up, and then, amazingly, take these branches and BEAT each other and themselves repeatedly… all over their bodies until everyone has a rosy glow. Getting clobbered with timber in a 90 degree 90% humidity environment - the idea is to Beat out the toxins in addition to the stress. This is all done in the pursuit of good circulation (so is drinking vodka after the banya is over).

After each round of the parilka room, the tradition is to go outside and swim in the icy cold lake or river, or, if it's winter a roll in the snow. For the city dwellers who don't want to risk arrest for indecent exposure, jumping into very very cold pools or, in an even more shocking way to cool off; by dumping large barrels of cold water from the ceiling onto yourself (both of which are both available at the city banyas). In fact at the main banyas there are typically 2 or 3 different plunge pools with varying “icy” temps to select from (65 degree cold, 58 degree really cold, and the ICE ICE cold 50 degree pool). All together it’s a really exhilarating experience that closely resembles the mammoth mountain ski cabin tomfoolery that people are familiar with (people jumping out of hot tubs and rolling around in the snow), but much more therapeutic and better in terms of overall process and circulation/healing.

After the first cycle of the steam and cold plunge, you return to the dressing/lounge room. Wrapped in white sheets people connect and socialize for about 10-15 minutes, as well as rehydrate with the help of plenty of water, hot tea, cold kvas (the wonderful national drink in Russia made from fermented wheat) or beer. Some people chat, play chess, cards, laugh, etc. Then, it's time for rounds two /three /four /etc. Everyone returns to the banya and the process is repeated. Most people go through the routine four or five times over the course of a 2 hour visit. The result of these efforts is the feeling of renewal, recirculation, re-connection with your banya mates, and complete relaxation. As they say in Russia “Lyokum Parom ” (easy steaming).